Translated by Bethszabee Garner

A safe bet and a refuge, white diamonds are increasingly lending themselves to all kinds of stylistic fantasies. Imagined in a multitude of different cuts, magnified in incredible or surprising creations that are a far cry from our grandmothers' jewels, this superstar gem is emerging from the safe deposit boxes to be worn every day.

We know that diamonds are forever. This little wonder of nature has been forming in the depths of the earth for over three billion years. Diamonds are made of pure carbon crystallized under pressure and heated to a temperature of over 1,000°C, a process that takes place at depths of 130 to 200 kilometers in the earth's mantle. Under these extreme conditions, carbon forms the splendid crystals that characterize it, a stone of incomparable hardness whose unique brilliance results from its very dense atomic structure. Is it not almost inconceivable to think that, carried by a rock of magmatic origin called kimberlite, diamond crystals rise to the surface during volcanic eruptions?

Over the years, diamonds have revealed many surprises. Discovering the usefulness and importance of cutting, European diamond cutters have constantly perfected their techniques. In the 17th century, the rose cut appeared. Diamonds were then reduced to three or more triangular facets, in multiples of six, up to 24. The Venetian Vincenzo Peruzzi was the first to cut a diamond with 58 facets.

But it was not until 1919 that mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky perfected the brilliant cut. He discovered the ideal proportions that optimize the stone's brilliance and published them in a collection, Diamond Design: 57 facets are all it takes to create a perfectly shaped diamond. Now, to distinguish an old cut from a modern one, you just need to look at the center of the diamond. If it has a small circle at the bottom of its culet, it is an old 58-facet cut!

The so-called fancy cuts (pear, cushion, square, oval, marquise, Asscher, etc.) appeared shortly thereafter. Unlike the brilliant cut, these cuts are not standardized, each with its own dimensions and proportions. They therefore offer the craftsman the opportunity to leave his mark. This was a godsend for the big names on the Place Vendôme, who developed their own “house” cuts for their exclusive use.

Louis Vuitton has just created a surprise. Innovation, tradition, and technology, combined with creativity and jewelry expertise, have led the house to design a specific cut for this exceptional stone: the LV Monogram Cut. A flower-shaped Monogram cut with fifty-three facets, available in two variations – LV Monogram Flower and LV Monogram Star – depending on whether the tips are rounded or pointed, all reminiscent of Louis Vuitton's iconic design. The LV Monogram Star diamonds inspired the LV Diamonds collection. These sparkling, extraordinary creations enhance the purity of the gems and the bold, poetic lines of the jewelry designs. This diamond cut adorns an initial line of solitaires, also available in brilliant-cut diamonds. The letter V, meanwhile, infuses vitality and develops its clear lines on the platinum ring band, while the bezel delicately represents a Monogram flower. Completing this offering, a double LV Monogram Star ring explores new graphic territory and showcases its timeless architectural audacity.

The all-diamond

Diamonds as precious fashion accessories? Yes. Valérie Messika and Marie Poniatowski, founder of Stone Paris, were the jewelers who pioneered this trend. Twenty years ago, the two women broke with established codes: yes, this stone is immortal, but these designers did not want to leave it lying dormant in safes and wanted to break the adage that it could not be worn every day.

The idea? To demystify diamonds, make them a little sexy and feminine for everyday wear. Their wish? That women would embrace them as a fashion accessory they could buy for themselves and wear from morning to night with jeans and a T-shirt or with a tuxedo jacket, and not just for special occasions. Messika has made diamonds more affordable, more rock ‘n’ roll, lighter, easier to wear, and sometimes even more daring, and not just for women.

Valérie Messika has designed stones that move, and bracelets and necklaces with elastic flexibility. The Move creations (a trio of moving diamonds set on a rail that appear to float in mid-air) with their new variation Move Link presented this year and Skinny (the jewel fits perfectly to the curves of the body) brilliantly play on technical innovation and modernity without compromising on quality. These comfortable, ergonomic, graceful and refined pieces of skin jewelry were an instant success and are now the brand's icons. Valérie Messika has created her own all-diamond style.

Marie Poniatowski has achieved success with her Blood Diamonds collection. Inspired by medieval crosses, particularly the Cross of Saint James, the dagger-shaped motif moves away from religious connotations and recalls the edgy film of the same name, which highlights the failure of the diamond supply chain to comply with ethical, social, and environmental standards. The Yasmine collection and the Tess and Sarah rings, named in honor of her daughter and sister, have become favorite pieces for many women. The latter is inspired by a Victorian brooch, as the designer is passionate about antique jewelry. She loves working on pieces with contemporary lines but with an antique feel. The Gilda ring, in a very Art Deco style, continues to enjoy unflagging popularity with its mix of baguette-cut and round gemstones.

Engagement jewelry

Gaia Repossi is another name to remember. The jewelry designer took over the artistic direction of the family business at just 21 years old. She has turned the rules of jewelry-making on their head, making diamonds float with her “Serti sur vide” collection, an ode to simplicity and architecture, which is celebrating its tenth anniversary this year. The success of the Antifer line lies in the perfect harmony of its asymmetrical jewelry. Inspired by the shape of the cliffs of Antifer in Normandy, the designs feature a simple line forming a point, stacked in an asymmetrical rhythm.

The Suspensions creations are earrings made exclusively of straight lines like precious barrettes. Some are fixed, supporting others that are mobile and paved with diamonds. The stones, cut exclusively in pear, oval, or marquise shapes, seem to be balanced on the gold stems and held in place by a miracle. Even the very traditional market for diamond engagement rings and wedding bands set with white gemstones is evolving.

Jewelers now talk about “engagement jewelry,” a more inclusive term, rather than “engagement rings,” which is considered too reductive. Personal purchases and impulse buys now predominate. These new collections combine seemingly contradictory imperatives, as they must exalt the uniqueness and strength of a signature while respecting the stylistic guidelines of this category of objects, which focuses primarily on the traditional solitaire, i.e. a gold or platinum ring set with a diamond or precious stone using claws.

Article written by Fabrice Léonard to be found in issue n°8 of OniriQ Magazine.