Translated by Bethszabee Garner

This is the oldest Relais & Châteaux in North Africa. It is also the most charming. The Villa des Orangers, in Marrakech, is hidden away in a location that no taxi driver in the city knows precisely. When you give them the address, they eventually say: "Ah yes, it's Sidi Mimoun! " In this bustling street in the Medina, a small, discreet door, half-open, invites curiosity. You can see workers busy at work, crouching down, paintbrushes in hand. A bellboy inevitably invites you to cross the threshold, and you find yourself not in a hotel but in a world of its own, a green oasis, a haven of calm and beauty.

A first patio adorned with splendid, century-old four-season orange trees. On either side, alcoves furnished like Moroccan living rooms. Perfect for a cool and fragrant welcome, accompanied by mint tea or homemade lemonade. In line with the patio is a beautiful 16-meter-long swimming pool, surrounded by deckchairs and olive trees, creating the shaded atmosphere we seek at siesta time. Where we tell ourselves that paradise must surely look something like this...

A confidential hotel

Visiting the hotel is like wandering through a labyrinth, as it has undergone a series of extensions over the last quarter of a century.

But let's go back to the beginning of the story. In the 1930s, a respected judge in the city, Mr. Mlihi, had a large riad built to house his entire family, including his wife, children, mother, aunts, cousins, and others. Morocco had not yet gained its independence, but the luxurious Andalusian architecture already had its characteristics: two patios with bejmat floors, terracotta from Fez, a Carrara marble fountain set on a star evoking water, wooden doors engraved with spiritual motifs, thick walls to protect the occupants from the heat, and fireplaces in the living rooms, welcome in winter when the wind blows down from the Atlas Mountains.

When the patriarch passed away in the 1980s, his heirs decided to sell. A French hotelier couple, Véronique and Pascal Beherec, fell in love with the house during a leisure stay in the Red City. They never left. They quickly agreed on a purchase price with the family, left Paris, and embarked on major renovations to inaugurate, in the early 2000s, a new form of hospitality that would flourish in Marrakech: the riad. Their efforts were quickly rewarded when the prestigious Relais & Châteaux chain accepted the Villa des Orangers into its ranks in 2001. It became the first R&C in the Arab world!

“Even back then, the residence was iconic,” says the lively general manager of the establishment, Souheil Hmittou. “We organized many prestigious parties there during the Pure Life Experience tourism fair.” Celebrities flocked there, including movie stars, top athletes, and a few French politicians who appreciated the discretion of the place. “We never give the names of famous guests to the press,” emphasizes the lively CEO, whose dynamism contrasts with the tranquility of the place.

Genealogical detective

The success encouraged the new owners to consider several extensions. The first took place in 2003 to build a real swimming pool in place of a mechanical workshop. The only one that existed at the time was a small pool dug into the rooftop, from where you can admire the sunset over the Koutoubia, the majestic 12th-century mosque with its impressive minaret. The acquisition of this land also made it possible to construct a new building housing three master suites, each measuring 1,076 square feet.

The second extension in 2008 proved to be much more complex. The Beherec couple had to buy back 17 commercial leases from 17 different owners. In a scenario worthy of a 1970s French comedy, 16 were easily persuaded, but the seventeenth remained untraceable. And without his signature, no extension was possible. Our two very persistent hoteliers then enlisted the services of a genealogical detective, whom they tasked with finding the rightful owners.

After several weeks of investigation, he found the descendants of the lessor in... the Cyclades! The negotiations were fierce, as the lucky heirs were well aware of their favorable position. “We paid the highest price per square meter in Marrakech for this shop,” says Souheil Hmittou ironically. In this part of the villa, six suites, a spa, and a private house have been built. The latter can be entirely privatized and has its own swimming pool.

Thanks to the latest extension completed in 2019, the Beherec couple have realized their dream of opening a bar reminiscent of Rick's Café, seen in the famous film Casablanca starring Humphrey Bogart. Typical of the 1930s and 1940s. In 2022, the Villa des Orangers was sold to a Moroccan investor, Dar Taarji SA, a hotelier for three generations. “The family office owned larger units, sort of like resorts,” explains Souheil Hmittou. “The Villa des Orangers is a bit like the jewel in the crown.”

This jewel became the first in a collection that continues with Les Deux Tours, a five-star hotel located in the palm grove. “The guiding principle is to bring iconic houses under the Moroccan flag,” says the CEO, who is enthusiastic about this ambitious project that should take the group beyond the borders of Marrakech. “In our hotels, the spirit of the Villa des Orangers will live on,” he continues. "In other words, guests should feel like they are in their second home. We offer accommodation, two meals, laundry, and unlimited non-alcoholic beverages. Guests feel at home with our competent and friendly staff, with whom they develop a friendly relationship. “

Fusion cuisine

The kitchen also goes to great lengths to ensure that residents feel at home in the restaurant. ”We have a menu with dishes that change every day,“ explains the humorous chef, Igmiri Abdelilah. ”But we can also prepare dishes on request that are not on the menu. " Having tried it, the food is perfect. The management wanted to fuse the great cuisines of the world with Moroccan cuisine, resulting in, for example, a delicious tomato and red pepper gazpacho, a tasty piece of meat grilled with candied lemon, or a surprising lamb shoulder burger with ras el hanout.

And for lovers of pure local cuisine, the selection of briouates or the free-range chicken tagine with caramelized eggplant will do the trick. The chef has an almost scientific approach to cooking, and for good reason. “I only started learning this trade at the age of 27,” explains Igmiri. Before that, I was a science student. That's why I sometimes say: I used to be science and math, now I'm tomato sauce!" After gaining experience abroad, particularly in Asia, Igmiri joined Villa des Orangers, initially as assistant to the former chef, before taking over the reins.

A fan of gourmet and efficient cuisine, this youthful-looking forty-something cultivates a simplicity that is appreciated in high places. “We didn't want a Michelin-starred chef who signs the menu but is never there,” says Souheil Hmittou. “Our chef does the shopping, manages his team, and approves every dish that comes out of the kitchen.” And, of course, he regularly picks a few bitter oranges from the patios to make the wonderful jam served at breakfast.

Article written by Yves Derai, featured in issue 12 of OniriQ magazine.