The interview of Christophe Hay

Yves Derai: You have a vegetable garden to supply you with fruit, vegetables and herbs, a Wagyu cattle farm, a truffle farm; you’ve been a fisherman since you were a child and champion the fish of the Loire. Does all this stem from a militant commitment?

Christophe Hay: Yes, but I’m not an extremist.

I do occasionally cook seafood, for example, for festive dinners. But generally speaking, I like to stay connected to my natural environment, my local area, and respect the seasons. At the moment, some producers are offering me asparagus even though it isn’t growing naturally. I don’t want any.

Why a Wagyu cattle farm?

C.H.: I had the opportunity to buy one about fifteen years ago. I’d just lost my father, who was a cattle farmer himself. It was a way of paying tribute to him. It’s also useful in my kitchen to have my own Wagyu because I understand its characteristics; it’s not Kobe beef. That means it isn’t too fatty; the cattle graze on pasture, listen to music and are massaged regularly. A Kobe cow can’t even stand up on its own because it’s overweight. It never exerts itself and is constantly fattened up. I, on the other hand, try to strike a balance between marbling and texture.

You cook almost exclusively with fish from the Loire. Doesn’t that frustrate you?

C.H.: No, not at all. Let me remind you that for a long time, the kings of France ate nothing but freshwater fish. The Loire is a river listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the quality of its biodiversity. It is home to numerous species of fish, as well as birds, beavers… From a gastronomic point of view, freshwater fish has a subtle flavour; I try to bring out the best in it. People come to eat at my restaurant to experience my commitment to these principles. Those who want lobster can go to the Vendée, to my friend Alexandre Couillon’s place!

You also serve game. That’s less of a trend than the ‘locavore’ movement…

C.H.: Yes, I know. But I’m a hunter, a fisherman and a poacher! Joking aside, I go hunting to be at one with nature. Sometimes I take game, sometimes I don’t. But if you take away the hunters, you’ll have wild boars on the roundabouts! Population control is necessary. Besides, Chambord has always been a hunting estate. We have roe deer and mouflon. I’m proud of my region.

Your ‘signature’ dish is carp in Chambord sauce. Where does this rather unusual dish come from?

C.H.: It was created at Chambord for Marshal de Saxe in the 18th century. Historically, the carp was served with crayfish cut into ‘demoiselle’ pieces and whole truffles, drizzled with a red wine sauce.

I’ve adapted this recipe, which we found in the archives, by stuffing the carp with these very same ingredients. As for the wine sauce, I took my cue from Paul Bocuse’s traditional sauce, the secrets of which he shared with me. A chef doesn’t invent anything; he follows in the footsteps of his illustrious predecessors. For my part, I’m following in Paul Bocuse’s footsteps.

Do you put your own spin on other traditional dishes?

C.H.: Our region doesn’t have any iconic dishes like sauerkraut in Alsace, cassoulet in the South-West or bouillabaisse in the Midi. Except perhaps tarte Tatin. So no, it’s not really possible.

You have a soft spot for Japan. You rear your own Wagyu beef, and you cook with yuzu and sudashi…

C.H.: As for citrus fruits, I grow around forty different varieties. In the dessert you tasted last night alone, there were six of them. And I work with both the zest and the pith. At my restaurant in Orléans, I serve ostrich and kangaroo, which are also reared locally. I don’t limit myself to leeks and courgettes! From my travels, I bring back experiences, ideas, influences… and seeds that we plant in the vegetable garden.

I’ve noticed that you don’t garnish your dishes with flowers. Are you less concerned with the aesthetics of the plate than your colleagues?

C.H.: If I use a flower, it has to add flavour, not just be decorative. I love jasmine tea, for example. As for aesthetics, why not, as long as it remains appetising. You’ve probably noticed that I always leave the sauce boats on the table.

Do you pay no heed to trends?

C.H.: Let’s just say I don’t chase after trends. I don’t spend my days on Instagram looking at my colleagues’ posts. My inspiration comes from two sources: my travels and my garden.

Your maître d’hôtel, Stephen Guyard, is sitting the Meilleur Ouvrier de France exam. Is that sort of accolade important for the restaurant?

C.H.: I’ll let you in on a secret. Paul Bocuse suggested I sit the MOF exam in 2001. I turned it down because I was too busy at the time. That decision remains a lifelong regret. Consequently, I’ve decided to encourage the young members of my teams to sit the exams. It instils discipline, and it’s always interesting to measure yourself against others.

What do you feel is missing for you to achieve a third Michelin star?

C.H.: The two essential qualities for reaching the very top are excellence and consistency. Maintaining the highest standards from the start to the end of the meal. This requires a great deal of hard work behind the scenes.

Article written by Yves Derai, featured in issue 15 of Oniriq Magazine

Translated by Bethszabee Garner