There is a sense of change in the air... Fashion is gradually shedding its old certainties to explore other textures. Leather, now joined by vegan leather, is no longer just a material: it has become a field for aesthetic and ethical experimentation, a space where innovation and sensitivity come together. So why not opt for the more responsible of the two?

When skin becomes consciousness

The rising generation no longer wants to choose between beauty and responsibility. Animal leather, steeped in history, also bears the traces of its excesses: intensive farming, chemical tanning, carbon footprint and so on. By definition, this material remains ‘a material derived from the transformation of animal skin, made rot-proof’. In other words, it is skin that has been processed and stabilised, becoming a symbol of prestige and durability over decades of fashion shows.

In France, according to the blog ISIGE Mines Paris-PSL, it represents €6.7 billion in turnover, mainly driven by leather goods (84%), followed by footwear (9%) and tanning (7%). It is a dynamic industry, supported both by international demand for luxury goods and the promotion of craftsmanship excellence.

Faced with these tensions, fashion is looking for other textures, other narratives. As it questions its impact, a new skin is emerging: cultivated rather than harvested. There are many variations on this theme: mycelium, the root network of fungi, apple skin, grape skin, beetroot skin... all hybrid materials that mimic the feel of leather without betraying its values.

Three visions of vegan leather, without animals

Hermès, heritage in dialogue with nature

At Hermès, craftsmanship remains sacred. But the house surprised everyone by collaborating with Californian start-up MycoWorks to create Sylvania, a mycelium leather made from mushroom fibres. Presented with the Victoria bag from the autumn-winter 2021-2022 collection, this material combines traditional know-how with rare biotechnological innovation. It's a way for the French fashion label to preserve the spirit of leather while reinventing the material.

Stella McCartney, pioneer of leather-free luxury

The Stella McCartney fashion brand places materials at the heart of its eco-responsible approach, which is why we love its designer so much. True to her cruelty–free vision, her collections are made without animal leather or fur. Among her flagship innovations are Piñayarn®, a 100% plant-based, recyclable and biodegradable fibre; Hydefy, a vegan alternative to leather made from mycelium; and YATAY, a bio-based material that does not involve animal suffering. In addition to these new products, there are more classic textiles that have been redesigned: organic cotton, certified wool, recycled nylon and polyester, and ‘forest-friendly’ viscose. At Stella McCartney, elegance is now seen as a balance between innovation, ethics and sustainability.

Nanushka, urban and conscious elegance

Nanushka, a Hungarian brand that has become a global phenomenon, has built its success on its signature vegan leather: soft, supple, almost sensual. Here, consciousness is an everyday thing, not militant. Its responsible leather-imitation skin can be worn on the street, at the office and even throughout the night: it fits in with the simple gestures of modern life.

More and more brands are no longer limiting themselves to using alternatives to leather: they are developing and selling their own innovative materials. Some, such as the Veganes Leder platform, now offer grape leather in rolls, a 100% plant-based textile made from wine-making residues. Others are experimenting with pineapple, apple and even mushroom skins, claiming total transparency in their processes. The material then becomes a product in its own right, a shared resource rather than simply a medium for creation.

Conscious luxury, or the beauty of choice

Some vegan leathers are still made from synthetic polymers, meaning that the ecological transition is not yet complete. Others question their durability: can they be repaired, recycled, and aged elegantly? Leather has long been loved for this very reason: its ability to stand the test of time without ageing.

But things are changing. Bio-manufactured materials are improving, traceability is advancing, and the idea of circularity is gradually gaining ground. Luxury is also changing its tune: it is no longer just about exclusivity, but also about responsibility. Chic is no longer measured by the rarity of a skin, but by the rightness of a choice.

On Instagram, this evolution sometimes takes the form of an aesthetic. Influencer Eva Poret, aka @studioevaporer, embodies a gentle and thoughtful version of this. In her videos, the young woman sometimes wears her own creations: pieces designed with great care, some of which are made from beetroot leather.

The editorial team's selection

Responsible chic is evident in the details. From OniriQ's selection of vegan leather, the editorial team fell in love with Nanushka's The Sandy Symbol bag, a supple and minimalist silhouette that is 100% responsible. Alongside it, we note Veja's URCA CWL trainers, which revisit black and white with an ethical touch. More urban this time, Ashoka's City Full Uppeal document holder stands out for its clean lines and practicality. Finally, Stella McCartney's suede Ryder tote bag brings a distinctive style while remaining faithful to an eco-responsible approach.

From left to right:

The Sandy Symbol Nanushka bag – 995€

URCA CWL black and white Veja trainers – 125€

City Full Uppeal Ashoka document holder – 150€

Stella McCartney suede Ryder tote bag – 1795€

Vegan leather is not just an alternative: it is a metaphor. It represents a world in transition, a fashion industry that is stripping back to rediscover its meaning. Combining technological innovation and poetic gestures, it is redefining the boundaries between nature and culture, luxury and lucidity.

And in this new skin, a whole new future is being invented: softer, clearer, more human.

Article written by Lohanne Mollo

Translated by Bethszabee Garner