Translated by Bethszabee Garner
He is one of those men who talk about feelings, vulnerability, and affection, turning them into an immeasurable strength. Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, the famous French designer behind the LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi label, impresses collection after collection by revealing the man from an angle that too few allow to be expressed. An individual, usually considered to be first class, who nevertheless has no right to tears in our society.
Since launching his eponymous label in 2017, the man who “already designed clothes when he was little” has been working to give the male wardrobe some well-deserved freedom. For him, clothing is a form of expression, and he doesn't hesitate to draw on his library for literary inspiration. In other words, he combines fabrics, art, history, romanticism, cuts, and sensuality into a single entity: the LGN man.
Meeting with Louis Gabriel Nouchi
Tom Kuntz: Under your artistic direction, there are no strict rules. Where does this rebellious attitude towards restrictions on men's clothing come from?
Louis-Gabriel Nouchi: I don't think I'm rebelling, I feel more like I'm responding to the demands of the people around me, what I hear on the street or what I see on TV... It's all very honest. But it's true that I've always considered myself an outsider, with a perhaps different sensibility and perception of the world.
Tom Kuntz: Looking through your collections, it's very easy to recognize your strong DNA. But how would you describe it to our readers?
L.G.N.: Radical, sensual, and inclusive.
Tom Kuntz: Like a shell, the LGN man dresses to face the outside world. We also recognize a form of vulnerability in your pieces. How do you achieve this balance between strength and sensitivity?
L.G.N.: I like the fact that bodies are all different and that simply showing skin, depending on the person and the part of the body, becomes a political statement. Revealing and suggesting non-erogenous parts of the body becomes even more sensual, in my opinion! The materials and colors play on this perception: I always wear very comfortable clothes, so fluidity comes naturally to us in our choices as a team. Transparency, with all its connotations, is also very important to us. We develop all our fabrics and colors in-house so that we can best convey the sensations we want to express.
Tom Kuntz: What inspires you to navigate between these two poles?
L.G.N.: Literature, as each collection is based on a book whose themes allow us to address different aspects of masculinity. But, of course, they are also inspired by many other sources, such as contemporary artists.
Tom Kuntz: Indeed, many of your collections are inspired by literature. Thomas Mann's Death in Venice, Marguerite Duras' The Lover, and so on. Tell us about this passion. Where does it come from?
L.G.N.: I've always read a lot, so it's naturally my primary source of inspiration. I like the idea that the collection is based on a personal image, which I then use to play with archetypes and stereotypes that allow people to reflect on things they've already seen, or offer them a different perspective.
Tom Kuntz: Do you have any other works that are dear to you?
L.G.N.: All of Hayao Miyazaki's works. I still know some of his films by heart. Michel Gondry's music videos, The Sound of Belgium's albums, Dostoyevsky's work, as well as Curzio Malaparte and Zola...
Tom Kuntz: When talking about your iconic pieces, it's impossible not to mention the suit. How do you manage to deconstruct this garment, which is so codified by the past, and differentiate yourself from other brands?
L.G.N.: The suit is generally the gateway to and exit from the male wardrobe. It's a set of clothes that can be considered a uniform. Every detail, color, and fabric is extremely codified. I really enjoy working within this framework, because these constraints are all the more challenging when it comes to bringing something new to the table.We work on proportions and materials such as jersey to ensure comfort. Strong shoulders add structure to the silhouette. We also work on either the sleeve head or the back of the collar.
Tom Kuntz: In your latest collection, you've incorporated a lot of elements that are rarely seen in menswear, such as transparency and nudity. How “normal” do you think it is to translate women's trends into menswear?
L.G.N.: As long as you feel good in a garment, there's no reason to hesitate. Men have worn tunics, dresses, and drapes for centuries. Today, they are gendered, but this is only very recent in the history of clothing. This makes playing with these codes all the more interesting. I really like heels. I think they offer possibilities for silhouettes and different proportions.
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Tom Kuntz: Was there a particular moment or collection that marked a turning point in your career?
L.G.N.: Discovering Yohji Yamamoto as a child, seeing people coming out of his store in Paris.
Tom Kuntz: How has your approach to fashion evolved since you started in the industry?
L.G.N.: Not much, I have to say. I hope it's more mature and that I'm better at expressing my ideas clearly and as directly as possible. When I started out, however, there were no social media to manage, which is now a huge part of the business!
Tom Kuntz: And finally, how do you see the future of your brand?
L.G.N.: I hope to continue evolving while staying true to our values and challenging ourselves every day. We're launching new lines this year (womenswear) as well as accessories by the way.
Article written by Tom Kuntz to be found in issue n°9 of OniriQ Magazine.
