He can't sit still, and that's probably what defines him best. In recent months, Julien Sebbag has created a new menu for the cabaret Le Non Sens in Montmartre, while accelerating the development of Shin and Micho, two projects that have become emblematic of his contemporary vision of cuisine. Micho, born during lockdown, celebrates generous, identity-driven street food based around hallah, the Friday night brioche bread, created in collaboration with the Mamiche bakery on Rue de Richelieu.

On Instagram, his daily recipes often feature vegetables, a choice consistent with his ecological commitments. But this facet alone does not sum up his culinary universe. J. Sebbag describes a cuisine influenced by his Moroccan and Ashkenazi Jewish origins and nourished by his travels, from Israel to Lebanon, from Italy to Japan and Southeast Asia. Through a revisited Proust questionnaire, we meet a chef who cooks to think more clearly.

Taste as a playground

Alice Masson: What is your most unlikely recipe?

Julien Sebbag: Chocolate aubergine caviar. On paper, it might sound scary. But in reality, the chocolate rounds out the slightly harsh side of the aubergine. It tempers its bitterness, darkens the colour and adds depth. It's not just a gimmick, I love testing this kind of balance, where you least expect it.

What is your first memory of a flavour that made an impression on you?

J. Sebbag: A monumental shock? Without a doubt, the beef bourguignon at Miznon, on Rue des Écouffes, about ten years ago. The ultra-concentrated sauce, the mustard, the tenderness of the meat... and above all, the balance of the pita bread with the freshness of the dill. It was simple, but perfectly thought out. It made a lasting impression on me.

The dish that brings everyone together?

J. Sebbag: Raclette. It's not my favourite dish, but objectively, it makes people happy. And in cooking, that's a sure thing.

Addresses, influences and obsessions

The best place for a romantic dinner?

J. Sebbag: Hojji Peronnet. A very intimate, almost hushed Japanese restaurant with a real eye for detail. I love places where luxury is discreet! Honi San, owned by the same people, is also remarkable. I highly recommend it!

Whose recipe would you have liked to steal?

J. Sebbag: I could name a thousand foreign references, but I want to name a French one (laughs). The fish ramen at Kodawari. For me, it's the best ramen in the world. No one would have imagined that ramen could generate a two-hour queue every day. It's proof that a basic dish can become popular without compromising its identity.

If you could take only one food item to a desert island, what would it be?

J. Sebbag: Rice. Nutritionally, it's a perfect balance: starchy foods, a base on which you can build anything. And above all, it's non-perishable. Pragmatic, but essential.

Pride, failures and comfort food

The dish you're least proud of?

J. Sebbag: A pear cake for my little cousin's birthday a month ago. I made it by eye without too much precision – laughs – a bit last minute. There was too much almond flavouring and the result was inedible. No one touched it, they all pounced on my cousin's chocolate mousse. I was upset. Since then, I've made it twice, taking it seriously this time, and it's much better.

What dish are you most proud of?

J. Sebbag: My tuna tartare topped with yellow kiwi tartare. It's a combination I've never seen anywhere else. The sweet and savoury, the sour and bitter... everything is balanced. It's very Mediterranean in spirit, and I'm deeply attached to it.

What do you eat while watching a series on the sofa?

J. Sebbag: Something extremely healthy and seasonal. Last night, while watching Sinner, I made roasted pumpkin with feta cheese and a white cabbage salad with roasted sesame oil. Even when I'm relaxing, I don't compromise on taste.

Is cooking an escape? If so, from what?

J. Sebbag: Yes, completely. It's a way to leave behind everything else, including human management, production stress, organisation, financial and administrative issues. When I'm in the ‘pure’ kitchen, nothing else matters. It clears my head. It's total focus, almost meditative.

To discover the flavours of chef Julien Sebbag:

Micho restaurant: 46 rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris, France

SHIN Café: 28 rue Richelieu 75001 Paris

47 rue des petites écuries 75010 Paris

Translated by Bethszabee Garner