‘Our first customer is the horse, the second is the rider,’ as the Dumas family, founders and owners of Hermès for six generations, are fond of saying. On the fifth floor of the historic building, around fifteen saddlers and harness makers concentrate on their wooden workbenches, bristling with pliers, half-moon knives, scissors and hammers: they are making a bespoke saddle, a unique saddle that will be numbered and recorded in their centuries-old registers. For these passionate craftsmen, precision and adaptation to the horse are paramount.
Every detail is important, from the depth of the seat, which brings the horse and rider closer together, to the tree, the rigid centrepiece of the saddle, and the fitting of the stirrup in the quarter to minimise discomfort to the leg.
This exceptional work begins with taking the horse's measurements while taking the rider's preferences into account. "A saddle expert visits the owner's stable. This is an opportunity to gather information about the saddle model required for the discipline practised and to take the horse's measurements, in particular using Equiscan®: a tool that, when placed on the animal's back, takes a very precise photograph (100 measurement points recorded) of the morphology of its back. In short, the experts are our eyes and we are the hands that make the saddle,‘ says Vincent Léopold, saddle development manager, whose thirty years with the company have never dampened his passion or his patience. ’Apart from cutting the leather, each craftsman prepares the leather he needs and assembles his saddle from start to finish. It takes around forty hours to complete our work."
Technical skill, rigour and calm reign supreme in the bright workshop on Rue Boissy d'Anglas, where the gestures are repeated in a precise order, with around forty pieces to assemble: the saddle tree (made of laminated beech wood on a metal frame) which forms the base of the saddle, the fitting and tensioning of the leather, the fixing with nails, the padding and sanding of the layers, and of course the stitching. ‘While we still use the same techniques, the materials have evolved to become lighter and more ergonomic. We are gradually improving each model.’
Not to mention the very refined aesthetic that characterises the company, such as the use of a single stitch, the famous saddle stitch. "At Hermès, anything that will be subject to heavy wear and tear is sewn by hand. Hand sewing is done using waxed linen thread and two needles. The distinctive feature of the saddle stitch is that each stitch is a knot; if one stitch breaks, the rest of the seam will not unravel. Machine stitching is mainly used for decorative purposes."
The oldest craft in the company
It is clear that horses are the family business's greatest achievement since Thierry Hermès, a harness maker by profession, opened his workshop in 1937. He understood the tastes of an elegant clientele for refined designs, breaking with the opulent offerings of the time. Although the company has diversified considerably, it has remained faithful to its founding principles: a family atmosphere and a creative spirit in the service of a sober and refined style. As such, the dialogue between the craftsman and the designer is fundamental to the group.
Aware of the importance of perpetuating the transmission of this expertise of excellence, Hermès has joined forces with the French Institute of Horses and Riding at the Haras du Pin to train future saddlers. It has just opened a new workshop in Louviers, Normandy, to complement the one on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Although the group does not disclose its figures, sales are growing, with the United States as the leading market, and a saddle costs around €8,000.
The latest creation is the Faubourg saddle, suitable for show jumping and flat work. Its design plays on transparency, like watches that reveal their mechanisms: "It's the first model to expose its hidden side: the tree. The idea is to show off the perfection of the finishes [the straps, polished fittings and oiled wood] and the saddler's craftsmanship," explains Charly Palmieri, saddler-harness maker, technical manager for saddlery and Meilleur Ouvrier de France. He adds: "We have also refined and lightened the saddle so that the rider feels closer to their mount. Its hollow seat gives a very secure “more in the saddle” position while retaining its dynamic appeal. The opening in the pommel makes it easy to get out of the saddle when jumping. This creation was developed in collaboration with our partner rider, Jérôme Guery."
Partner riders
When designing new models, Hermès works with professional riders in three disciplines (dressage, show jumping and eventing), including Steve Guerdat, Pedro Veniss, Ben Maher, Jessica von Bredow-Werndl and Jérôme Guerry, who have become ‘partner riders’: ‘We designed the Arpège saddle [2016] in collaboration with Jessica von Bredow-Werndl, who became world number one. The expertise of these champions is essential: without them, we would not be able to progress,’ says Charly Palmieri.
Every year since 2010, the highly popular Saut Hermès days have been held. The best show jumpers from the CSI 5-star category, the highest in the French Equestrian Federation's classification, come to tread the sand of the Palais Éphémère. This is an opportunity to showcase and celebrate the craft of bespoke saddle and harness making, with workshops set up on site to engage freely with the public.
An article written by Désirée de Lamarzelle, featured in issue 7 of OniriQ magazine.
Translated by Bethszabee Garner
