In the beginning, it was a restaurant where people came from all over France and even further to taste the sea bass, the great specialty of an establishment built on a reef with a breathtaking view of the Mediterranean. Concerts were held there and the evening often ended with a fireworks display. One might come across European royalty such as King Leopold II of Belgium, Emperor Wilhelm II, the man who would become Edward VII of England accompanying his mother, Queen Victoria... The list of crowned heads is long, but how could we not mention Sissi the Empress, who came to La Réserve several times for lunch in 1896 and 1897, while staying in Cap Martin. A journalist wrote at the time: “La Réserve de Beaulieu is the king of restaurants and the restaurant of kings.” He unwittingly invented what would become the name of this prestigious establishment.

Gordon Bennett, magnate and sponsor

At the beginning of the 20th century, the owner Pierre Lottier, assisted by his two sons Jean and Alexandre, decided to add a hotel section with around ten luxury rooms. La Réserve kept the same name, inspired by the stock of live fish and crustaceans kept under a veranda, which made its reputation. In addition to monarchs, actors, entrepreneurs and wealthy heirs frequented this magical place. Among them was a press magnate who gave his name to one of the streets adjacent to the Roland Garros stadium, Gordon Bennett. “He was an eccentric character,” explains David Delion, son of the current owner of the luxury hotel and marketing manager. “He loved La Réserve to the point of becoming its main patron.” Gordon Bennett notably provided the hotel with a telephone, obtaining the number 01-00-01 in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, which has been retained until today (04-93-01-00-01)! It was largely for this unbridled epicurean that an oyster bar was created, well stocked with American drinks.

The owner of the Herald Tribune also attracted Hollywood stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Cary Grant, who contributed greatly to the international reputation of the Reserve, which remains more powerful than ever.

The first setback came during the First World War. The establishment closed its doors from 1914 to 1917. When it reopened at the end of the war, nothing was the same. The German, Austrian and Russian aristocrats deserted the premises and with good reason, as most of them were downgraded socially or even worse... But others arrived: King Gustav I of Sweden, Queen Helen of Italy, the King of Siam, etc. Thus began a new and happy period for this marvelous house, which the great French artist Mistinguett made her home port.

The golden age with Jean Potfer

But the Second World War broke out. The Lottier family, who had already gone through the throes of the first, decided to sell. A wealthy entrepreneur, Jacques Laroche, bought the hotel and immediately began expansion work that would increase the hotel's capacity to 50 rooms. At the Liberation, in 1945, Jean Potfer, a man renowned for his talents as a hotel manager, took over the management. He held the reins of the Reserve firmly for more than 30 years and succeeded in bringing together all the historical figures, mixing kings and queens with artists. To name but a few, the Prince of Liechtenstein, King Farouk, Archduke Otto von Habsburg, His Highness Hussein II Pasha, but also Charlie Chaplin, David Niven, Orson Wells, Gregory Peck, Sir Forbes... French singers are not to be outdone, as Jacques Brel and Gilbert Bécaud are among the regulars.

This golden age ended with the departure of Jean Potfer in 1977 and the sale to a bank, which allowed the place to decline. Until it was taken over by Jean-Claude Delion in 1996, who had already turned around the Résidence de la Pinede in Saint-Tropez. This hospitality enthusiast, who felt his vocation emerge very early on, from a very young age, even before he founded his painting company, found a project that was beyond his wildest dreams with the Reserve: a five-star hotel aiming for the “palace” distinction. Every winter, he devotes himself to embellishment work: a mirror pool, a spa, a luxury boutique...

At the same time, he sets the bar very high at the restaurant, which earns two Michelin stars thanks to the virtuosity of chef Christophe Cussac. “My father has always been very demanding when it comes to gastronomy,” recalls David Delion. ”The current chef, Julien Roucheteau, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2018, who already had two stars at Lancaster in Paris, is doing everything he can to win the second one at La Réserve.”

The clientele has changed since the end of the millennium. The monarchs and artists have been replaced by businessmen, especially English and Americans, in search of calm and beauty. Also in search of a quality table and the great wines that fill the cellars of the Reserve. “With 35,000 bottles, some of them exceptional, we have the finest cellar on the French Riviera after the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco,” says the owner's son proudly. The legend of La Réserve is also written in vintage letters.

Article written by Yves Derai to be found in issue n°1 of OniriQ Magazine.