Translated by Bethszabee Garner

Seven-Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno recently celebrated the 10th anniversary of his arrival at Le Pavillon Ledoyen (Paris 8th arrondissement) by organizing an exceptional dinner inspired by French history. While the waiters presented the turbot and roast beef to the guests and the chef himself served the sauces, Stéphane Bern commented on the dishes, drawing on his encyclopaedic knowledge. It was an evening like a work of art, which gave us the idea of inviting Yannick Alléno to our Art in Question section.

Yves Derai: Do you consider yourself an artist or a craftsman?

Yannick Alléno: A cook, so more of a craftsman of the product.

Yves Derai: Is art an inspiration in cooking?

Y.A.: Of course, but for me, everything starts with the product. It's what inspires and guides me. This respect for the product and taste at all costs.

Yves Derai: What work would you dream of hanging in your living room?

Y.A.: Probably a work by Giuseppe Penone [Italian artist associated with arte povera].

Yves Derai: If you had to be painted by an artist, who would you choose?

Y.A.: Olivier Masmonteil, who did a wonderful job at the Pavillon Ledoyen.

Yves Derai: Which museum or gallery do you like to spend time in?

Y.A.: La Scène Ouverte, my wife's gallery, which brings together international artists.

Yves Derai: Are you more Leonardo da Vinci or Picasso?

Y.A.: Leonardo da Vinci, for his visionary side.

Yves Derai: You recently organized a historical dinner to celebrate your 10th anniversary at the Pavillon Ledoyen. Which period in French history was the most creative in terms of cuisine?

Y.A.: The 19th century. It was the era of Escoffier and the greatest culinary (r)evolutions.

Yves Derai: What treasure would you snap up at an auction?

Y.A.: A work by Fontana, which is also a fine example of innovation in art. Fontana developed what was called spatialism, in an attempt to synthesize sound, color, movement, and space in a single work.

Yves Derai: Was the food better under the monarchy than under the Republic?

Y.A.: No, under the Republic!

Yves Derai: Are you nostalgic for the cuisine of yesteryear?

Y.A.: I'm not nostalgic; you have to live in your own time. But I do believe it's necessary to draw on the past to build the present and the future.

Yves Derai: Do you like hunting for bargains at flea markets or antique shops?

Y.A.: Yes, from time to time. We sometimes buy pieces that have been completely forgotten and are rediscovered years later by the art market.

Yves Derai: What was the last antique you bought?

Y.A.: Some small sea-themed ceramics that we now use at L'Abysse, my Japanese restaurant.

Article written by Yves Derai, featured in issue no. 8 of OniriQ magazine.